Corvus Watch Company

How to Put On and Wear a NATO Watchstrap

2011-12-07T16:44:00.001-05:00

This is our second how-to video. While our first dealt with how to safely install any nylon strap without causing it to fray, this one deals specifically with the mysteries of the NATO G-10 watch strap -- you know, the one with that odd little extra piece of nylon. Please enjoy.

How to Properly Install a Real Bond Nylon Watchstrap

2011-12-02T18:09:00.001-05:00

Once in a while we get an email from a customer who complains that his or her Corvus Real Bond Watchstrap has begun to fray along the edges. Sometimes the comment is even that the edges became frayed right after putting the strap on their watch.

Fraying along the edges of the Corvus Real Bond (or any nylon) watchstrap is always caused by the edge of the nylon scraping agains the watch lugs when the strap is slid between the lugs without first removing the springbars.

We have put together a video tutorial on how to properly put a NATO or other nylon watch strap on a watch:

The lugs of many watchs, especially military-style watches (such as our Corvus Bradley Dive Watch) are quite sharp. When you pull a nylon watch strap through without removing the springbars, it is like taking the edge of a knife and scraping it against the edge of the nylon. In these cases, even a brand-new strap will fray.

We recently reviewed a number of videos on YouTube, etc. on "How to install a NATO watchstrap." All of them are wrong, and give dangerous advice. You must carefully slide the nylon between the lugs, while pinching it so that the edges do not scrape against the lugs.

Many of the cheaper copies of the NATO watchstrap design are made of backpack webbing. This has a low thread count, and thick nylon thread. This stiff, uncomfortable webbing is is made to be quickly pulled through D-Rings and other hardware.

Corvus watchstraps are made of supple, high thread-count nylon, woven specifically to wear on your wrist. A little care when putting the strap on and taking it off your watch will result in a strap that will look great for years. Members of our staff have been wearing the same Real Bond straps every day for over three years and they still look good.

The Untold History of the Bonklip Watch Bracelet

2011-11-20T13:34:00.001-05:00

Bonklip watch bracelets were first developed in the late 1920's and the early 1930's, and are widely associated with the Royal Air Force and British military watches in general. The primary link with the RAF is that the easily adjustable bracelet was issued to post-WWII aircrews to wear on their legendary Mark XI navigation watches. These were made for the RAF by Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC, and are two of the most accurate mechanical watches ever made.

The Bonkip watch bracelet was an innovative design for several reasons. It was one of the first mass-produced and relatively cheap watch bracelets to use stainless steel (examples are variously marked "Firth's Stainless" and "Staybrite," a trademark for the 18/8 stainless steel invented by Thomas Firth of Newcastle, England in 1924). Second, the bracelet was easily and quickly adjustable to virtually any size.

The Bonklip bracelet's association with the British Military has been well documented by Adrian van der Meijden and Thomas Koenig in their article: The Bonklip Bracelet in his Majesty's Service, Horological Journal, December 2007. The Mark XI navigational watches are covered comprehensively in the article Man is Not Lost, Horological Journal, January 2004. In general, however, virtually nothing was known about the Bonklip itself until now.

The Krementz Self-Adjustable Watch Band

The Bonklip design may not have been a British invention at all. Although an English patent was applied for by Dudley Russel Howitt on March 6, 1930 (and later granted), an American patent application was filed for virtually the same design on April 10, 1929 by Walter M. Krementz.
Walter Krementz was the son of George Krementz, who founded the Newark, N.J. jewelry company Krementz & Co. in 1869. The company became successful by pioneering the technique of sandwiching base metal between two sheets of real gold, resulting in "gold-filled" or "Rolled Gold Plate" jewelry, a superior alternative to electroplating. Their big breakthrough was in selling gold-filled collar-studs, a now obsolete piece of jewelry used to fasten the removable starched collars used on men's shirts until the First World War.

Krementz Factory in Newark, N.J.

By 1929, Walter and his brother George, Jr. ran what was probably the world's largest jewelry company, and sold a full line of watch bracelets. A 1929 advertisement shows Krementz watch bracelets for men, that used "tubular mesh bands" and "open link mesh bands" identical to the later Bonklip-style bracelets, except with conventional folding clasps, and without the length adjustability.

However, on April 29, 1929, Walter filed a U.S. Patent application for a "Wrist Watch Bracelet" that utilized the open-link mesh band of their earlier products, and combined it with the fold-over adjustment loop and universal attachment clip that made the Bonklip so popular.

A patent was granted to Krementz & Company and the bracelet -- virtually identical to the later Bonklip -- was on sale at least as early as 1931.

Krementz self-adjustable watch bands were marked "Krementz, Pat. Oct. 1930, "Kremaloy". The Kremaloy seems to have been a type of stainless steel. Surviving examples are still completely rust-free. $3.50 was the equivalent of about $60 today, after adjusting for inflation, although this is misleading as this 1933 ad was from the height of the depression. At the time this ad appeared, the average daily wage in the USA was only about $30 in today's dollars. Two days wages; not a cheap product.

The Krementz bracelets seem to have not been terribly popular. Far fewer survive than the Bonklip, and although Krementz dominated the costume jewelry market until the 1970's, no post-WWII bracelets of this type appear to have been made. In the 1950's and 1960's, after the Kementz patent expired, another American company, Forstner, made a very similar product for a number of years. These Forstner bracelets are quite common, many in new old stock condition.

The Success of the Bonklip

Meanwhile, on the other side of the Atlantic, eleven months after Walther Krementz filed his U.S. Patent application, a Londoner, Dudley Russel (sic) Howlitt filed a British Patent application on April 6, 1930 for an almost identical invention. Howlitt followed this up in August, 1930 with a German Patent application. Both patents were eventually granted. While the Krementz bracelet would largely be forgotten, Howlitt's product, sold as the "Bonklip," would become famous.

Dudley Howlitt was one of six children of Harry and Francis Howlitt. He worked in the thriving jewelry industry in the Clerkenwell district of London. There is some evidence that he may have at one time been a silversmith and made and sold Sterling silver cigarette lighters under his own name and with his products bearing an "HRH" maker's mark along with London Hallmarks.

Sterling Silver cigarette lighter possibly made by Dudley Russel Howlett

What is certain is that at the time he patented what was to become the Bonklip watch bracelet, he was associated with the Birmingham jewelry company B.H. Britton and Sons, and worked out of their London offices at New House, 67-68 Hatton Garden, London. The New House was an office building right in the center of the Jewelry District in Clerkenwell, just north of the City. It still is a handsome building today, and the entire district has enjoyed a resurgence in the past few decades.

Former location of the London offices of B.H. Britton and Sons as it looks today

B.H. Britton and Sons manufactured the Bonklip bracelet for over forty years, and it is today their best-known product by far. The company began in 1855 as Benjamin Henry Britton and Sons at a workshop at 83 Vyse Steet, Birmingham, makers of "gold guard and fancy chains." These are more commonly known as pocket watch chains. By 1929, they had become B. H. Britton & Sons, "manufacturers of Gold Cigarette Cases, Vesta Boxes, Tear-offs,Alberts, Platinum Alberts, Signet Rings, Expanding Watch Bracelets, SlaveBangles, Flexible Bracelets, Sleeve Links, Guards, Necklets in 9 ct., 15 ct.,and 18 ct. and Silver Alberts." (A bit of explanation: an Albert chain is a type of heavy pocket watch chain, and a Vesta box is a match safe). The factory had also relocated to 35 Hockley Hill, Birmingham, in the middle of what was (and still is) known as Birmingham's Jewelry District. They also had opened their London sales office at New House.

Pocket Watch Chain made by B.H. Britton and Sons

B.H. Britton and Sons was an especially prolific maker of silver chains, and also made silver-cased cigarette lighters. It may have been this cigarette lighter connection that brought Dudley Howitt to the firm.

Sterling Silver Cigarette Lighter signed "B&S"

According to surviving Britton family members, the company also made gold watch cases for Rolex and exported watch chains world-wide. There is also evidence that Rolex sold some watches with Bonklip bracelets during the 1930's and 1940's.

1940's Rolex sold recently at Christie's with apparently original Bonklip

While perhaps not the large-scale industrial operation that Krementz was, B.H.B. & S. were certainly the preeminent watch chain maker in England.

The Bonklip watch bracelet represented a move into mass-market products for the firm, which had been essentially a fine jewelery maker (far more so than Krementz, which was basically a costume jeweler). The Bonklip can, however, be found in solid 9 ct. gold, with London hallmarks and a "B & S" maker's mark. The vast majority of Bonklips, however, were stainless steel with some gold-filled as well.

9 kt solid gold Bonklip bracelet signed "B & S"

Even in the 1960's, B.H. Britton and Sons still considered themselves primarily goldsmiths, and had expanded into signet rings, gold crosses, and as a sign of changing fashions, tie clips. The firm, after 120 years of making fashionable accessories for gentlemen, as well as equipping RAF aircrews and countless military personnel, folded in about 1973. The fact that their factory was slated for demolition to make way for road improvements may have had something to do with it. The British Ministry of Defense officially dropped the Bonklip from their stock-lists about this time, replacing it with a nylon strap with a leather pad, and eventually the now famous "G-10 NATO" nylon strap.

B.H. Britton and Son's patent expired in 1950, and while it still remained a popular product, it faced growing competition from G & F (Gay Freres, later to be bought by Rolex) and other Swiss, French and American (Forstner) copycats. The Bonklip even faced competition from another Birmingham Jewelry company, Clewco (E.J. Clewley and Co.).

A few words about the Bonklip military connection. While the British Ministry of Defense only issued Bonklip bracelets to RAF aircrew in the 1950's and 1960's, it is wrong to say that the Bonklip bracelet is "incorrect" when worn on earlier military watches. Enough ATP (Army Trade Pattern), A.M. (Air Ministry) and post-war W.W.W. (wrist watch, waterproof) watches survive with period Bonklips to make it clear that this was a popular and useful watch bracelet that was widely adopted as a private purchase by thousands of soldiers throughout WWII and after. They even appear on U.S.A.A.F. A-11 watches, a big improvement over the pigskin and cheap cotton issue straps.

The Bonklip certainly out-sold the Krementz bracelet many times over, and represents a proud piece of Britain's manufacturing and military heritage.

Bibliography

The Jewelers' Circular-Weekly, Vol. 78, Issue 1 (February 5, 1919), pp. 193-195.
Board of Trade British Industries Fair Catalogue 1929: held at The White City, Shepherd's Bush, London W12, from 18 February to 1 March, 1929, and organised by the Department of Overseas Trade (Empire and Home Edition).

Diving 101

2011-11-17T22:50:00.001-05:00

Tom here, and I wanted to give a littlebackground and tell a bit about my passion and hobby. Watches andSCUBA diving. Corvus is my company and I reserved for myself theBradley Dive Watch serial number 32. I have mounted it recently ona Corvus Shell Cordovan watch strap, black with white stitching. Previously, I have used one of the first batch of “soft” RealBond watchstraps.

My love of dive watches grew out of myserious SCUBA diving addiction. I am certified in open water, Nitroxand wreck penetration. I have over two hundred logged dives and manymore I just forgot to write up. I use an Aeris xr2 divecomputer/regulator with a US divers back up.

I have spent a gob of money travelingto many of the best dive sites on earth. I am not wealthy, justobsessed. I view money spent on dive equipment is the most importantthing you can do. To blow 6 grand on a cool dive vacation and useEbay purchased equipment is just stupid/dangerous. I have seen manysad cases where cheap equipment caused the diver to miss dives due toregulators blowing out, fin back strap breaking (at the point ofgetting in the water) and hypothermia from cheap or inadequate wetsuits. The same goes for your ultimate backup – your dive watch.

About the dumbest thing I saw was thissummer was when my dive trip "assigned" partner did nothave a computer or much idea how the tables worked. She just went to100 feet plus with a 100 cubic foot tank. She was really pushing thelimits and did not understand what she was doing. I brought her upin a non-emergency ascent and she had no idea how close she had cometo mandatory decompression, or the bends. She had been certified along long time ago and had kind of BS'ed her way on the trip. Otherthan her lack of basic diving skills, she was very nice andappreciated my buddy coordination. More about this fantastic divetrip in a future blog post.

I guess I should tell some of my dumbass moments. Several times I took my boat to Pentwater, Michigan, todive its excellent wrecks. The best preserved is the Anna C. Minch,sunk during the Armistice day Storm of 1940. We found it by studyingthe wrecks location and all data we could assemble. Then we took offwith GPS and fish finder humming along to aid us in finding Anna. Atthe exact location, just south of Pentwater and half a mile offSilver Lake Dunes state park, we found the wreck in about 30 feet ofwater. Not only did our GPS and fish finder locate her, perfectly,but several white Clorox bottles were tied over it to help diversfind her!

Anyway, the surface water temp was inthe 60's and bottom temp in the 40's. I was trying out a differentwet suit, I was used to the weighting for a farmer john suit and wastrying out a one piece style. I had about 45 pounds of lead on myhips and when I went to release the air in my BC I went into anuncontrolled descent. Just as quick as I tapped the exhaust button Iwent straight down. Fortunately the depth was only 30 feet, but Istill suffered a nasty squeeze on my sinus. It hurt but I finishedthe dive and for the next week blew bloody snot globs. I consulted anon dive doctor and he said if the discharge turned green and smellyto come back to his office. It cleared up but I have been verycareful since, to double check my weights for the different wet suitsI use.

I guess the point of this blog is tostress the basics of diving, use the buddy system, have goodequipment and know where you are going. After all my expensiveequipment and experience, failures in training, planning andequipment can happen to everyone at any time.

My Corvus watch has never let me down. In multiple dives over one hundred feet it is the final backup tosaving your life. I always set the bezel and know how long I havebeen under. It may be my third redundant back up, after my twocomputers, but it is the simplest and toughest! There are lots ofgreat watches on the market, but my Corvus is the one I bet my lifeon.

Introducing Our New Two-Piece Shell Cordovan Strap

2011-10-22T12:28:00.001-04:00

We'll get right to the point. This is the best leather watchstrap available. Period. Here's why: It's extremely thin, very comfortable, waterproof, looks great when new and gets better with age, won't rot or start to smell like gym shoes, and it will last for years.

First, it is a single layer of leather. This is unheard of in quality watch straps. The reason is that all hide leather has a skin side and a suede side. While all hide leather absorbs moisture, the suede side sucks it up like a sponge. Therefore, all quality leather hide straps have to use a double-layer construction so that the suede side(s) are concealed. The best straps also have the raw edges folded over and tucked in before sewing or gluing. This is called the art manuel method of construction. All this folding, gluing, stitching is done by hand and adds cost, thickness, and lateral stiffness.

Even when an ordinary hide leather strap is made using these proper techniques, it will absorb sweat and eventually rot or smell. A famous German manufacturer of high-quality hide leather watchstraps recommends that you replace your leather strap every six months. This is realistic. Think about those leather moccasins that you wear without socks in the summer. Ick.

SHELL CORDOVAN IS DIFFERENT FROM HIDE LEATHER

All of these problems go away with Shell Cordovan. Why? Because shell is not hide. It is a muscle that is located below the skin (hide) of horses, and only on their buttocks. (Yes, we've heard all the jokes!) Added to this, the Horween Company takes six months to tan the product by adding oils and waxes to enhance the natural waterproof nature of the shell. The result is miraculous. A waterproof, supple, and great-looking "leather" that is unlike anything else.

Shell Cordovan has traditionally been used for shoes, for obvious reasons. Shell Cordovan shoes and boots have been known to last for decades. When future general George S. Patton began to serve as an aide to General John Pershing during WWI, he immediately copied the General by ordering a pair of custom-made Shell Cordovan boots, a style he famously wore the rest of his life.

THEY KILL HORSES DON'T THEY?

No! Only mature animals that have died of natural causes are used by the Horween Leather Company for their shells. While Shell Cordovan was once made by a number of leather tanneries in the USA, for many years, Horween has been the only remaining maker of Shell Cordovan. They have made it in the same way since 1905. No other tannery in the world makes genuine Shell Cordovan.

A word here about Japanese "Shell Cordovan." There have been persistent rumours that a Japanese tannery has recently begun to make "shell cordovan." Here is the real story. In Japan, horse meat is a food product. It is considered a delicacy and often eaten raw, like sushi. As a result, horsehide is a by-product of feedlot slaughterhouses. Shell Cordovan is hugely popular in Japan, especially for shoes, and rightly so. We sell a lot of our watchstraps in Japan. But Japanese-made "shell cordovan" is not the same product as our genuine Horween Shell Cordovan!

Horses are livestock in Japan. They are specially bred for food, slaughtered when young, and are raised under very different conditions than riding horses in the USA. The musculature in the horses hind-quarters never develops to anywhere near the extent of American horses. While these animals' hides make excellent reproduction WWII flight jackets, the shells cannot be used to product top-quality Shell Cordovan.

Beware of products that falsely claim to be made of Shell Cordovan. The word "Cordovan" is often used to describe a certain reddish-brown color of any kind of leather. (This color is available in our Horween Shell Cordovan as "Oxblood.") It does not by itself indicate Shell Cordovan. Unless you see the Horween Shell Cordovan Stamp on the back of the leather, it is NOT genuine Shell Cordovan.

OUR NEW TWO-PIECE, UNSTITCHED SINGLE-LAYER WATCHSTRAP

Available in 18, 19 or 20 mm widths, with a slight taper. 19 and 20 mm tapers to 18 mm at the buckle end; the 18 mm tapers to 16 mm. The shell is so thin (less than 1 mm) that we cannot produce these two-piece straps in larger widths. (For watches with 22 and 24 mm lug widths, we recommend our Shell Cordovan NATO straps.) All genuine, and incomparable.

$115 with free Priority Mail Shipping world-wide.

Cordovan NATO on a Seadweller

2011-09-28T18:20:00.000-04:00

We are delighted to share some wonderful photos taken by one of our customers (Thanks R.N.!!) of our 20mm Shell Cordovan NATO strap on his Rolex Sea Dweller. This is the natural with white stitching. We emailed back and forth several times, discussing which strap would work best on this watch, and we must say that the results are as cool as it gets. The new Sea Dweller is really a serious tool and the Shell Cordovan is a great match.

Our New Shell Cordvan Postcard!

2011-09-24T12:56:00.003-04:00

We've just created a new oversized postcard that will be included with your Corvus order. Similar in concept to our popular Real Bond NATO postcard that is included in all Bond strap orders, this one documents the production of the Horween Shell Cordovan used in our leather NATO and Bund-style straps. Watch for our introduction of NEW styles of Shell Cordovan watchstraps in the next few weeks!

The strange code on the bottom right is called a "QRCode," and allows you to scan it with a smartphone like an Android or an iPhone and get a link to our website!

This text is from a Horween Tannery 1950's document. We couldn't have said it better ourselves!

New Corvus Products Review in Japanese

2011-09-23T14:28:00.005-04:00

We were very pleased to learn that a popular movie Blog in Japan posted a detailed review of our products, focusing on our new Movie-Style Bond Strap and our King Kong Company Vietnam T-Shirt from theDeNiro movie, Taxi Driver. If you can read Kanji, please enjoy. Otherwise, it's worth a look for some great Blu-Ray screen captures from Thunderball and Goldfinger. Very otaku.

Japanese Movie Blog Corvus Review

Really Vintage Military Diver

2011-09-22T17:41:00.000-04:00

We found this photo of an antique cigarette card from the 1920's. I imagine that this is a fairly fanciful image, and I doubt that this diver needed a watch! (Although it looks like he might be wearing a small one on his left wrist!)

It is interesting to remember that until the 1950's, diving watches mostly used horsehide leather straps (for example, WWII Panerai watches). I am pretty sure they were Shell Cordovan, like our NATO straps. No other leather is even close to being as waterproof.

The Greatest Rolex That Never Was.

2011-09-16T23:56:00.001-04:00

In April 2004, Antiquorum auctioned a strange watch. It was purported to be a Rolex prototype designed for the U.S. Military. Here is the catalog auction description:

This is the first watch known to be sold at auction, with dial marked "U.S.Marine". The case of this watch is perfectly engineered for heavy military use. Its large size ensures that the wrist will be completely covered, thereby preventing the injuries sometimes caused by violent impacts to smaller watches, the winding crown positioned at 4 o’clock, with its sloping crown guard, affords better protection than the standard configuration of crown and guard at 3. The rounded hoods covering the lugs reduce the possibility of the watch’s becoming caught in equipment and also act as locks for the bezel. The steel rotating 12-hour bezel effectively gives an hour and minute recorder which is invaluable in military exercises. Overall, this watch was designed for only one purpose, to tell time in some of the harshest environments and under the most extreme conditions, the types of activity that are synonymous with the U.S. Marine Corps. According to unofficial information from Rolex, two similar prototypes by Tudor were offered to the U.S. Navy. One of these Tudor prototypes was sold by Antiquorum NY in May 1998, lot 36. The present watch will be illustrated in the upcoming book on Rolex, soon to be published by Guido Mondani.

The sale of this watch caused a great deal of controversy. Some experts declared it an unequivocal fake. At first glance, it would seem to be a very fanciful creation. The citation to "unofficial information" and the laughable "U.S. Marine" (vs. U.S. Marines) inscription did not encourage much confidence either. Still, someone appears to have paid over $100,000 (114,000 Swiss francs) for this admittedly rare and unique object.

My own opinion is the same as what appears to be the consensus among advanced military watch collectors. Fake. Or is it? First, if this is a prototype U.S. Military watch, there would exist some documentation of a RFP or milspec that this watch would have been made to compete for. There is none. In addition, it would have been unprecedented that the Marines would have solicited a separate watch for their branch. Due to historical connections, the Dept. of the Navy's Bureau of Ships has always handled Marines procurement. In fact, the Tornek Rayville TR-900, although a Navy procurement, was ultimately issued to mostly (if not exclusively) Marine Recon personnel during the Vietnam war. We would be led to believe that this watch would have competed with the Benrus Type I. While the Benrus is well documented, no one has found a peep about any Rolex or Tudor competitor.

Finally, a well-regarded Hong Kong-based watch restorer took credit for this creation about four years ago. It was reported to be a fantasy piece put together with real Rolex parts and Vietnamese (some irony there) components, custom made for a wealthy Japanese collector to his specifications.

Real or not, the watch is a masterpiece of design. The Rolex Submariner is the most iconic watch design of the 20th Century. It has been knocked off and "homagde" to death. It is the watch design that has launched a thousand bastard children. Virtually none of these spawn have contributed anything new to this design idiom.

However, the best was yet to come. Enter Sato-san. "Ken" Sato invented the "homage" watch genre in the 1990's with his fanciful and parodic Rolex Submariner reinventions sold in Japan under the "Prolex" label, and then later, the "RXW" brand. (For a primer in Sato-san's work, see here .) These are not knock-offs or copies, and surely not "fakes." Ken Sato is an advanced collector of vintage Rolex watches who combines this with a deep love of the Rolex design vocabulary and a great eye for design.

After coming up with his uniquely Japanese take on the Milgauss, Comex, and Milsub, Ken Sato took on the design of the controversial U.S. Marine watch, calling his creation the "Subpromarine." I hope that he never believed that this U.S. Marine "prototype" was real. However, I am sure that he immediately recognized the beauty of the design. But, where the design of the Hong Kong fantasy piece was overblown, Ken Sato's take on it was subdued, and in so doing, achieved design perfection. To summarize, Ken Sato's watch was an homage to a fake, one that arguably surpassed the original. The ultimate irony was when Sato's Subpromarine began itself to be faked, and was being sold for 1/3 the price on Ebay. There was no comparison, however, the fake having a glass crystal, a cheap Chinese movement and a plastic retainer ring. A fake of a homage to a fake.

I have had my eye on this watch for some time. But when I saw that Ken Sato's Website showed that only a dozen were left in stock, at a clearance price, I couldn't resist.

The Corvus TimeSquare

2011-09-16T17:27:00.002-04:00

We received this question through the website the other day:

I have a TimeSquare, Model:4000005 that has worked incredibly well for years, but the center two "lights" have stopped working. Can this be repaired? Thank you.

At first we thought it was spam, but then the gentleman sent the same message again and I realized what he might be getting at. A quick Google search later led to the following discovery, courtesy of something called Google Books:

We had previously learned about this "other Corvus" when a customer sent us a photo of a funky 1960's LED wristwatch made by them. It's good to know that the gentleman's Corvus TimeSquare gave him many years of good service. We are sure that our "new Corvus" timepieces will give equally good or better.

Sadly, we could not repair his TimeSquare for him.

Why Does This Pair of Pants Cost $550?

2010-05-13T21:26:00.000-04:00

His cotton gabardine khakis, sold at Bergdorf Goodman, cost $550.

“It sounds crazy to say this, I know, but our pants are a steal,” Mr. Sternberg said.

This is an interesting article that was an eye-opener about the true cost of luxury goods. There is some relevancy to the business of manufacturing and selling fine wristwatches. Value doesn't always equate to cost. It made me think of the Real Bond watchstrap knockoffs that are made in China and wholesale for $2 each, but are sold as a "bargain" for $20.

Why Does This Pair of Pants Cost $550?
By ERIC WILSON
Published: April 28, 2010 - New York Times

EVEN in a season when designers made no secret about reining in prices to appeal to the newly chastened luxury consumer, it is still possible to walk into a store and wonder what exactly they were thinking when a pair of khaki cotton pants — right there on the hanger, no special packaging or 3G plan or anything — can cost as much as an iPad.

Never mind that classic button-fly chinos at Abercrombie & Fitch cost $70 or that Gap sells “original khakis” for $44.50. The fact that luxury chinos exist — and in surprising numbers — is another story, one that illustrates the challenge faced by designers to justify the still sky-high prices of their clothes. A distinctive design might strengthen the argument, but is $550 really a fair price for basic pants?

How about $480, for plain khakis from Michael Bastian? Or $495 for light cotton twill pants from Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row? Or $595 if they are by Giorgio Armani? Or $780 for ones with elasticized cuffs from Bottega Veneta? Or is $350, as Thom Browne charges for chinos, the right price? The range suggests that since the luxury bubble burst, designers have no clue what customers are willing to pay.

“The cost of creating those things has nothing to do with the price,” said David A. Aaker, the vice chairman of Prophet, a brand consulting firm. “It is all about who else is wearing them, who designed them and who is selling them.”

Yet, from the designers’ perspective, there is value to be found in pants that are thoughtfully designed with high-quality materials and labor. For new designers, like Scott Sternberg, whose Band of Outsiders label is largely defined by preppy basics that are studiously fitted and expensively priced, it costs more to make his clothes because they are often produced in small batches. His cotton gabardine khakis, sold at Bergdorf Goodman, cost $550.

“It sounds crazy to say this, I know, but our pants are a steal,” Mr. Sternberg said. To make his case, he gave a tour of the factory where they are made, Martin Greenfield in Bushwick, Brooklyn, where little has changed in the production of tailored clothing in a century.

A man was hovering over an 80-year-old contraption called a jump iron, hot enough to mold fabrics into shapes they will be unlikely to forget. Another man basted panels of suit fabric to springy canvas, which makes the garment more flexible. In a machine-made jacket, the canvas would be fused or glued into a suit.

Mr. Sternberg’s khakis are tailored like dress pants, and the details are largely sewn by hand, including buttonholes and split waistbands, which can be altered easily. The fabric, which costs $24 a yard, plus $3 a yard to import, is a cotton gabardine fine enough to withstand basting stitches. About two yards, counting for boo-boos and such, is used to make a pair of pants, so the fabric cost is $54.

At Martin Greenfield, a union shop where employees earn about $13 an hour, before benefits, it takes an average of four hours of labor to make a pair of pants. The pants pass through the hands of at least 20 people in the process of cutting fabric, adding pockets and building out a fly. So with labor and fabric, the cost to make Mr. Sternberg’s pants was about $110 — a fifth of what they cost in a store.

The final price reflects the markups of the designer and the retailer, what they charge to cover expenses, pay their employees and, with luck, make a profit on what sells to cover the losses on what does not. Mr. Sternberg doubles the cost to arrive at a wholesale price of $220. The retailer adds another markup, typically a factor of 2.5, which brings us to $550.

Is it too much?

Not if that’s what people are willing to pay, Mr. Aaker said. Jeffrey New York had some nice Gucci chinos with a tiny tab of red-and-green striped ribbon at the waistband for about $500. They sold out.

A machine might make pants more cheaply, Mr. Sternberg said, but for a designer who wants to be known for quality, what would be the value in that?

Moisture Disc on the Bradley

2010-03-26T23:02:00.001-04:00

Customers and friends have been asking for this since we started this project. I have to say I have had mixed feelings about it due to vanity. I just love the satellite black dial so much, it seemed a shame to hide it in any way. Nevertheless, the moisture disc is growing on me in a big way.

There is no doubt that the moisture disc has every reason to be on the Bradley, especially the acrylic version. The original specification that we followed in making the watch -- MIL-W-22176A -- gave precise instructions as to the materials and placement of the moisture disc. The Bulova UDT Prototype also had a moisture disc, albeit in a squared-half moon shape rather than a circle. Vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms also had a similar moisture disc. I have to admit that with the moisture disc, the Bradley is scarily authentic looking.

What is this thing anyway? It is two half-circles of paper placed together on the dial to make a circle. The bottom half (blue) is cobalt-impregnated paper. The top half is regular paper. The idea is that if moisture were to penetrate into the watch case, the bottom half of the disc would turn pink to match the top half. At that point the owner of the watch would know to send it in for service. Although the specification called for the top half to be pink paper, we used tan 25% cotton 24lb bond. The reason is that on every original we have ever seen, the pink has faded to tan. In fact, the long-term efficacy of this moisture detection system is questionable since on every original the blue has turned pink. It would be very easy to use the pink bond on the top as well, if someone wanted to have the disc look like brand new.

How did we do it? We used genuine cobalt-impregnated paper and the bond paper, special double-sided adhesive tape, and a very high quality 1/4" circle punch. This creates perfect moisture discs that are essentially a small sticker. A couple of tweezers, a good eye, and a steady hand is all that is needed to put the disc in place. It took us months of testing and searching the internet for the correct materials. The hardest part was finding a thin enough adhesive tape and a good enough quality hole punch. Once we got the materials sorted out, it was all relatively easy.

If any Bradley owner would like to try this modification, we will be happy to send a supply of these moisture discs free of charge. No guarantees if you screw it up -- you're on your own. Also, we can't guarantee that if you change your mind about the sticker that it can be removed without leaving a mark on the dial. However, the satellite black is pretty tough stuff, and I think the sticker probably can be removed just fine. Just don't hold us to it. Drop us a note at info@corvuswatch.com with your serial number, address and whether you want tan or pink on the top. Thanks!

The Beefy Bond is Here! Sapphire Insert Sneak Preview

2009-11-15T14:36:00.008-05:00

Introducing the new "Beefy" Real Bond Watchstrap!

Thank you to all our customers who have made the Real Bond NATO and RAF watchstraps a success! Our first mill run of 500 yards of webbing has sold out, and our second mill run of Real Bond webbing is completed and available now in the following sizes: NATO 18mm, 20mm & 22mm; RAF 18mm & 20mm. (22mm RAF is still in stock in the old softer fabric).

The new webbing is fantastic! Still made in the same Scottish mill on vintage looms, we told them to make it tougher. The result is a very tough and beefy fabric, but still very comfortable. It is the toughest, tightest weave of any NATO style watchstrap webbing that we have ever seen.

Still the same price and free worldwide shipping. We know you will love it.

http://corvuswatch.com/index.asp?page=watchbands

NEW! Phoenix Straps Ltd. NATO watchstraps in SOLID GREY AND SOLID BLACK colors.

We are very pleased to be able to expand our offerings of watchstraps to include Solid "Admiralty Grey" NATO straps in 18mm and 20mm, as well as Solid Black NATOs in 20mm. These are made by the same UK manufacturer as our Bond straps, Phoenix. The fabric is made in a different mill than our Bond straps, but also in the UK. These are the real G10 NATO style straps, exactly as issued to the British Army and Royal Navy. These are the straps that Phoenix sells to the British government. All other so-called NATO g10 straps are copies. Only Phoenix straps are the genuine issued straps.

Finally! The Bradley Dive Watch Sapphire Bezel Inserts Are Almost Ready.

After six months of waiting, we now have the prototype sapphire bezel insert in our hands! WOW, it was definitely worth the wait. They are just gorgeous, and the radius on the top of the insert looks fantastic. On the watch, the sapphire looks perfect, just the look and feel that we wanted. More details and photos to come.

Complete bezel assemblies with the new sapphire insert will be offered to existing Bradley Dive Watch buyers at our cost, $175. They are easy to switch. Also, once these are available, the Bradley will come with a choice of acrylic or sapphire inserts. The sapphire versions will be offered at an introductory price of $1,450.00 for the first 30 days only. Afterward, the price will increase. We will, however, keep the price of the acrylic insert version the same for the foreseeable future. Watch for another email announcement when these go on sale.

Our New Catalog is Now Available!

Our new Fall 2009 Corvus catalog is now available. We will be including a copy in each watchstrap order while they last. If you would like one sent to you, please send us an email at: info@corvuswatch.com ( mailto:info@corvuswatch.com )
They have lots of information about the Bradley Dive Watch and many great photos of the watch!

Look For Our New Ad and Bradley Review in WatchTime Magazine!

Our second advertisement in WatchTime magazine just hit the newsstands in the November/December issue. Our Bradley Dive Watch is also featured in a special Sports Watch section. Pick up a copy!

The Blurry Line Between Real and Fake

2009-10-26T02:39:00.006-04:00

Here is an interesting and rather disturbing article about the Chinese watch industry. It appears that no product is immune from knock-offs. Most disturbing is the description of working conditions:
Conditions range from Dickensian workhouse – the sweltering plating room which reeks of chemical fumes with teen-age employees incurring long-term brain damage – “No OSHA in China,” cracks my translator....
We Americans in particular are addicted to cheap Chinese goods, watches included. It is getting to the point where it is almost impossible to know where a wristwatch component is made. Certainly many watch companies, especially small boutique companies that aspire to the "low-luxury" market, rely on Chinese components to hit their price points. I'm annoyed with companies that won't comment on where their components are made. These Swiss/Chinese products should be clearly labelled as such (in the UK new consumer protection laws will eventually demand this). But that would shatter our happy illusion that a fine "Swiss" mechanical watch can cost $600.
China’s Blurry Line Between Fake and Real
(from China Sentinel)

Written by Justin Mitchell
Monday, 28 May 2007

Inside a counterfeit factory in Shenzhen, the reality of China’s massive knock-off goods trade is on display, one watch at a time.
Here in Wong Tinghua’s bustling counterfeit watch factory in Shenzhen, the niceties of copyright are not an issue. Wong, 35, used to manufacture legitimate time pieces in the northeast Chinese city of Dandong, bordering North Korea on the Yalu River in Liaoning Province. Now he specializes in watches on demand. You want Disney? He’s got Disney. Hello Kitty and Doraemon, too, as well as more upscale European and American brands and Chinese counterfeits, if the Beijing Olympics grab you.

Shenzhen’s lure as a get-rich-quick zone as well as competition from North Koreans counterfeiting Chinese watches eventually drove Wong south three years ago where he’s now the number two man in a non-descript third floor “Arts Manufacture” watch factory squatting in the middle of one of Shenzhen’s less-developed, yet thriving district neighborhoods.

Inside the factory a time clock has roughly 30 cards for employees working 7.30pm-6pm six days a week, though Wong claims his total staff is about 100. He says can make up to 10,000 watches a month and brings out three catalogues featuring a staggering selection of phony designer faces ranging from Rolex, Seiko, Omega, Fossil and Tag Heuer to Russian President Vladimir Putin astride a white steed, BMW, Bacardi, Dunhill, the Lone Ranger, US flag, Thomas the Tank Engine and the Beijing Olympics characters.

Conditions range from Dickensian workhouse – the sweltering plating room which reeks of chemical fumes with teen-age employees incurring long-term brain damage – “No OSHA in China,” cracks my translator to near-luxury as in Wong’s office which features an aquarium, large mahogany desk and chairs, though no lights and only air conditioning-on-demand as the Sunday afternoon sun begins to set.

Wong, who sports a flawless looking sleek, black, fake Hugo Boss time piece, gets his company’s watch guts shipped from Dandong and he fills orders from anywhere he can, mostly Hong Kong and Russia. The main distributor is in Guangzhou.

Wong is just one of presumably thousands of pirate entrepreneurs in Shenzhen and throughout China.
Awhile before the visit to Wong, on April 26, it was World Intellectual Property Day in Shenzhen and the city eagerly joined in public exhibitions to destroy pirated DVDs and demonstrate their commitment to ensuring that Disney, Sony, Microsoft, Rolex, Paramount, Playboy, the Charles Schulz estate, Adidas, Burberry, Louis Vuitton, and the 2008 Beijing Olympics, et al are not be ripped off. It’s difficult to assess the damage, but U.S. officials say pirates cost legitimate producers worldwide up to $50 billion a year in lost potential sales.

It hurts Chinese manufacturers also. Recently reported domestic piracy cases included nearly half a million US dollars worth of bootleg Wuliangye, a popular Chinese liquor, as well as counterfeited Chinese cigarettes and phony Li Ning sport clothes and shoes. Li Ning has aspirations to challenge Adidas, Puma and Nike.
I celebrated the day with a visit to the Lohou Commercial Center, one of Shenzhen’s top tourist sites due to its enormous selection of mostly high quality, low priced pirated goods. I was buying red embroidered Chinese slippers as a gift for my sister, but I easily could have scored some bogus Prada, Gucci, Pedro Garcia, or Skechers footwear as well as a flawless and unauthorized Godfather Trilogy DVD for her husband and a quickie copy of Spiderman 3 (with or without Russian dubbing) for her son.

If the Shenzhen Municipal Intellectual Property Bureau truly wanted to make a public display of its commitment to IPR it would condemn and raze the Lohou Commercial Center and then go after the myriad manufacturers, like Wong, but in doing so it would also be severing a major financial and social artery.
The system is so entrenched, says Dutch native Danny Friedmann, a Cantonese speaking resident who has studied the China IP issue for two years, the local courts are practically useless. He adds, however, that courts in big cities can be useful. "That is why forum shopping is important for lawyers. It is hard but you can enforce your intellectual property rights in China, at least in the big cities.

“It’s a combination of corruption, local protectionism and lack of enforcement,” Friedmann adds. “If an IP infringement dispute goes to court some local Chinese courts are inclined to rule in favor of local companies even though they clearly infringe on intellectual property rights. The reason is that the local judge is appointed by the local party official and financed by the local government, which in turn is dependent on the tax revenues and management fees paid by the local businesses.
“And the company's employer or employees are often friends and relatives of the local party or government. So it’s not in the interest of the local government for an infringing company to go out of business because this will lead to unemployment and even possibly to ‘social unrest.’ And it is possible that the infringing company is a state owned company, with direct connections to the local government. Another problem is that local courts oftentimes are not willing to enforce judgments rendered by courts elsewhere in China against local defendants.”

Friedmann says that even if a company does succeed in gaining a judgment in its favor, China’s IPR laws do not guarantee the plaintiff can recover any damages if the defendant’s ill-gotten gains are not readily located or have wound up in the wrong hands.
The problem can be seen in a 2005 Shenzhen People’s Court case that didn’t involve piracy but corruption. The defendant, a 31-year old buyer for Wal-Mart named Li, was convicted of taking more than $4 million yuan in bribes for rigging bids for Wal-Mart suppliers.

He’s currently serving a year in a Shenzhen jail but, according to a former Wal-Mart co-worker of Li’s who spoke to Asia Sentinel on the guarantee of anonymity, Li says he bribed the judge 800,000 yuan in exchange for a lenient sentence and plans to collect about 3.2 million yuan of stashed bribe money upon his release. Reportedly his one regret is that a house, two automobiles and a mistress he also accrued will not be available. The house and automobiles were seized and destroyed as part of an official Shenzhen campaign against corruption. No word on the mistress.

And the judge? He’s Pei Hongguan, one of five senior judges – including Pei’s ex-wife – from Shenzhen’s Intermediate People’s Court who were arrested in 2006 on corruption charges. Three were sentenced to jail terms ranging from four to 11 years with two others, including Pei, reportedly still awaiting trial.
Meanwhile inside the Cititzens Center, the Shenzhen Municipal Intellectual Property Bureau was following-up the DVD and software destruction blitz with a five-day exhibition highlighting the protection of Shenzhen's intellectual property rights over the past three years.
It includes a mass photo of 1,000 artists painting “original” works in the Dafen Oil Painting Village in 2004. Yet another small irony, in that Dafen’s appeal for tourists are its copy-cat renderings of copyright-free Old Masters as well as more current and protected creators such as Warhol, Picasso and Dali.

The Shenzhen effort as well as a national one the Xinhua News Agency claimed that “workers across the country set fire to 30 million pieces of smuggled and pirated audio and video materials, software and 11 million copies of pirated and illegally published books and magazines” followed complaints by US Trade Representative Susan Schwab at the World Trade Organization against China over piracy and restrictions on the sale of US movies, music and books. Vice-Premier Wu Yi, China’s top envoy on trade talks with the US, has since vowed Beijing will "fight to the finish" against piracy.
Meanwhile, Wong continues well below the radar grinding out his watches, though he is proud to say he also makes “real” goods as his business straddles a line between legitimate and counterfeit. He shows off a customized, hefty stainless steel Chinese People’s Army watch with English lettering that he says was commissioned by an army unit in Inner Mongolia, wholesale price 80 yuan. Then he leaves the office to return with colorful sport watches that double as MP3 players priced at about 200 yuan.

Impressive, I think. This is original. Later research on Google uncovers the fact that in 2002 the MP3 watch fad flared briefly with 12-year-olds in American suburbs, was then strangled in its crib only to be briefly revived in 2005, snuffed once again and has yet to catch on, including in China, Russia or Hong Kong.

Yet Wong, perhaps sensing that we aren’t as hip to watch marketing has we’d pretended to be, has hope. As we leave he mentions that he can also whip up MP4 watches and if that’s not enough he can drop the MP3 price by 30-40 yuan for a “large order.”

The Care and Feeding of the Real Bond NATO

2009-08-29T13:36:00.010-04:00

Well, it's been six months since we introduced this watchstrap, and we have almost sold out of the first mill run of webbing.

I thought it would be a good time to give some tips on keeping the straps looking their best. No NATO-style strap last forever, but there are some tricks to keeping them looking top notch.

As you all know, the Corvus Real Bond straps are made from an unusually soft and silky material. This provides for exceptional comfort, but there is a trade-off. Fraying can occur, especially around the buckle hole. This happens with all NATO-style straps, but can happen a little quicker with our very soft material.

(NOTE: We are resupplying from a new mill run of webbing. It should be ready in 2-3 weeks. The new stuff will be thicker and more durable, but a little stiffer. I have mixed feelings about this, but I think most people will like the new beefier webbing very much. Still, I will miss the silky soft stuff.)

Tip 1: The washing machine is your friend.

It's always a good idea to keep your strap clean, especially in the summertime. The easiest and best way is to just throw it in the washer. Afterward, I like to then throw it in the dryer with my regular laundry. This tightens up the weave considerably and reduces the appearance of wear.

Tip 2: Fire is good.

Like most NATO straps, the Real Bond straps are made of nylon. Nylon melts at a fairly low temperature. This is why the RAF style straps were made straight without the second strap, because they were made to fit through a non-flammable leather pad. Flammable things next to your skin are not good for burning jet fuel.

This characteristic does, however, allow for the nylon webbing to be heat welded (basically melting two parts together) and for the holes to be cut with hot pins that basically melt a hole in the webbing.

When you experience the inevitable fraying around your favorite buckle hole, apply a lighter or match to the flayed part. About 1-2 seconds is plenty. The fraying will melt off and the hole will become re-cauterized, looking almost like new. This works for any part of the strap that shows fine exposed threads, just take it easy. A few short (1 second) applications of the fire are better than one long one.

The Waters of Segregation

2009-08-21T14:30:00.016-04:00

A few weeks ago I took my equipment out for a shake-down dive. The location was the beautiful small (80 acre) Idlewild Lake in northwestern Michigan. The dive was fun but more interesting that the lake itself is the history of the area, known simply as "Idlewild." Idlewild was one of the few segregated resort lake communities where African-Americans were allowed to own vacation homes. It was a vibrant community from the 1920's to the 1960's. After the end of segregation, it began a slow decline to what it is now: a fascinating, but run-down shadow of its former self.

Idlewild is located a few miles east of Baldwin, Michigan in Lake County. Today, Lake County has the highest unemployment rate in Michigan. It is about 200 miles north of the southern border or Michigan, and is pretty remote. However, in the 1920's it was just a day's train ride from Chicago to the station in Baldwin.

The development was started in 1912, when several white investors bought up a 2,700 acre wooded tract and subdivided it into thousands of tiny house lots (100ft x 25 ft. selling for $35) on a grid of dirt roads, including a relatively small number of premium lake-front lots. The idea was to sell the lots to "land hungry blacks." Their plan was wildly successful. By 1927 16,895 lots had been sold to over 6,000 black Americans from around the country, mostly from Chicago and Detroit, but also as far away as Hawaii. There soon was a common swimming area, 15 motels and several large nightclubs, including one on the lake.

The visitors and owners are a who's who of African American history. W.E.B. DuBois, founder of the NAACP was a frequent visitor, as well as the first successful heart surgeon, Dr. Daniel Hale Williams. Jazz greats Duke Ellington, Louie Armstrong (see photo to right)and Dizzy Gillespie vacationed and owned property at Idlewild. The legendary boxer Joe Louis owned one of the nightclubs. vacationed regularly and owned a nightclub in Idlewild.

Nightlife was especially lively and became world famous, even attracting white vacationers from Traverse City, 60 miles away. According to a recent article:

Blues greats B.B. King, T-Bone Walker, Alberta Adams and Etta James were all regulars. An equally impressive line-up of jazz greats performed at Idlewild: Ellington, Armstrong, Gillespie, Cab Calloway, Lionel Hampton, Betty Carter, Sarah Vaughan and Dinah Washington. There were others like Sammy Davis Jr. who made some of his first performances on the Idlewild stages, as did Bill Cosby,
Jackie Wilson and Stevie Wonder. Actress and singer Della Reese started her career in Idlewild as did Motown legends the Four Tops who formed there. Other musical giants were regulars; Aretha Franklin, The Spinners, and The Temptations all played the clubs and vacationed at Idlewild.

By the 1950's there were hundreds of cottages (called "dog houses" because of their tiny size), six restaurants and no less than nine nightclubs. But with integration and an aging population of original owners, the community began to decline in the 1960's. By the 1970's, African-Americans could largely go to the same resorts as whites. Cottages began to deteriorate and were abandoned.

A large fire destroyed the nightclub on the lakefront, now replaced with a pleasant public park and swimming beach. Only one building that formerly house a nightclub is left, boarded up. The last restaurant, the Red Rooster, folded two years ago. All that is left is a couple convenience stores and a hodge-podge of still smartly maintained cottages, interspersed with ruins. The dirt roads leading to the less desirable wooded house lots are overgrown with only a few of the tiny houses left. Still, many descendants of the original owners continue to vacation here, and there is a very active owners association that gets together regularly for socializing and no doubt remembering the many enjoyable vacations spent there over the years. The lake itself is a beautiful as ever.

Our dive was begun from off the swimming beach. The water was very warm as it was early August. The sand near the shore gives way quickly to a weedy bottom, and visibility was poor in the green murky water. The lake's heavy use no doubt has accelerated the growth of algae and other nitrogen-loving plants. After an hour or so of hunting at the bottom, about 25 feet deep, we found a few old beer bottles and a rusty ice spud from an ice fisherman. The lack of visibility definitely interfered with the relic-hunting on the bottom.

Overall, it was a fun dive in a very pretty lake, surrounded with a great deal of largely forgotten history.

For more information about the history of Idlewild, see:

An excellent article from the Northern Express Newspaper

http://www.northernexpress.com/editorial/features.asp?id=881

Black Eden: The Idlewild Community by Lewis Walker and Benjamin Wilson.

http://tinyurl.com/lrubtt

Palancar Reef

2009-03-24T16:34:00.020-04:00

By Tom:

In Late January, my wife and I spent a week on Cozumel Island, Mexico. We stayed in a very nice resort just North of the city. The Island is nearly spotless and mostly brand new buildings, compliments of the latest hurricane. I went on 3 guided SCUBA trips. 2 were two tank and one was a three tank dive. The dive shop supplied everything, but I brought my own mask and regulator/computer. The water was in the 70’s with a variable northerly drift. Visibility was over 100 feet! I am NITROX certified but didn’t need to use it as the dive profiles were deep/shallow with mandatory 5 minute safety stop at 15 feet. The weather was perfect, sunny and high 70’s with calm mornings and slight chop in the afternoon.

I made three dives on Palancar reef. It is a Mexican underwater “parque.” This is easily the prettiest coral reef I have ever dived. Massive ancient coral heads festooned with both brilliant soft and hard corals. The heads created underwater caves and canyons that were at least 50 feet deep and very narrow. Light filtering through created stunning backdrops for underwater photographers. The depths for Palancar varied from snorkeling to over 100 feet. Several of our snorkelers saw the biggest spiny lobster I have ever heard of. It was at least 40 pounds! Aquatic life was above average. I’ve seen better examples of fauna, but none in such a pretty site. I saw lizard fish, sea turtles, eels (big and little!), eagle rays, clown fish, gorgeous queen trigger fish and large grouper.

On the last dive we put in just North of the city and only several hundred yards to the edge of the drop off. This location was about 50 feet deep with a very sharp abyssal drop off. The current was too strong to swim against, so we just drifted on the edge of the underwater cliff. The only remarkable thing about doing this was that during the last week in January, right in this location, the Eagle Rays mate. Seeing many rays before, they usually present as big, slow moving, underwater sheets. This day was far different. The guides had warned us that we might not see anything, but several days before divers had seen several.

After just a few minutes, I witnessed one of the most interesting displays in my diving experience. Suddenly, from out of the depths of the cliff, two rays shot up at a steep angle right in front of me. At least 7 feet across, they looked like big gray ghosts flying past my head. Another blasted out of the gloom and did a wing over and dove towards the depths again, going right under another diver, not missing him by 6 inches! It happened so fast he stopped and acted paralyzed for a few seconds. One of our team was a professional underwater videographer. The rays were so fast he wasn’t able to get any good footage. I suppose this behavior has been recorded before, but it must be rare. We observed this chasing and violent acrobatics the entire dive. It was the third dive of that day, but I never felt fatigued with all the excitement.

I can’t wait to go back to Cozumel. Weather in winter is perfect, everything was inexpensive and the people wonderful. The crime you see in the border cities is nowhere evident in Cozumel. I’d live there in a heartbeat!!

Moe for the Watch Otaku

2009-03-20T17:15:00.033-04:00

Japanese ideas continue to invade the Western world through pop culture and language. One Japanese word that has been adopted with enthusiasm by watch collecting enthusiasts is "wabi" -- a shortening of the Japanese philosophical term "wabi-sabi" (侘寂). To American watch collectors, wabi has come to mean wear, damage, or other evidence of age that is considered desirable. However, this use of the term is an over-simplification of a complicated idea.

In Japan, wabi-sabi is the idea that life and the world are impermanent and that acceptance of this fact is essential to enlightenment. It can take a lifetime of study and meditation to truly understand wabi-sabi. As to the American use of the word, it would more accurate to say that a watch or other item with wear or signs of age remind us of wabi-sabi because they are beautiful in imperfection. Still, the word is extremely useful to describe the idea that an imperfect example of a collectible has a beauty that surpasses an overly restored example. This idea is widespread in the world of antique furniture (where original finishes are highly prized) and, recently, among car collectors. This aesthetic is widespread among vintage watch collectors (particularly with vintage Rolexes, where a "restored" example can lose more than half its value compared to one in original condition.)

Another recent Japanese import is the word "otaku." This word has great potential in describing watch collectors. The only current term that comes close to capturing the sometimes obsessive and pedantic nature of the watch hobbiest is "WIS." WIS was coined in the early days of the internet, when watch collectors began to discover each other in the wilderness of the Usenet newsgroups. It stands for "Watch Idiot Savant," an all-too-accurate description of many who may find themselves reading this blog (myself included.)

I prefer the term "watch otaku" instead of "WIS." This term has already been used sporadically among collectors. Unlike "WIS," "otaku" has a complicated and rich meaning that seems appropriate when describing the watch collecting fanatic. To many older Japanese, "otaku" is a derogatory term used to describe odd individuals who are obsessed with anime or manga, live alone, and are socially inept. In Japan, any non-conformist is considered a bit frightening. However, the term has quickly evolved in meaning in Japan, and is now widely used and no longer always an insult. Recently, those who might slightly qualify for the term have begun to refer to themselves as otaku with a certain outsider pride. In Japan, otaku has come to mean "geek" instead of "nerd." Those who used to be called otaku are now more likely to be called "kimomen," (short for "kimotiwarui," and "man") or "creepy man."

In the U.S., the term has little of the original stigma attached. In the U.S. and Japan, recent usage allows for it to be used in connection with any interest, such as music otaku, railroad otaku, etc. It has come to mean any somewhat obsessed collector who is driven to learn and share every bit of obscure knowledge about a hobby. Sound familiar?

The otaku, the passionate obsessive, the information age's embodiment of the connoisseur, more concerned with the accumulation of data than of objects, seems a natural crossover figure in today's interface of British and Japanese cultures. I see it in the eyes of the Portobello Road dealers, and in the eyes of the Japanese collectors: a perfectly calm Railfan frenzy, murderous and sublime. Understanding otaku-hood, I think, is one of the keys to understanding the culture of the web. There is something profoundly post-national about it, extra-geographic. We are all curators, in the Postmodernism world, whether we want to be or not.

— William Gibson, April 2001 edition of The Observer.

Now, if we accept that many of us watch collectors are indeed otaku, we can embrace another related, even more mysterious term: Moe (promounced Moh-eh). The kanji for moe (萌え) means literally "the budding of a flower." In he last five or six years, this term has been given a very different meaning in Japan. People under 30 understand the new meaning well. People over 30 are familiar with it, but don't really understand it. People over 40 would think you were talking about horticulture. Among otaku, moe means that ecstatic feeling you get from an item that is greatly desired but largely out of reach. It also is used to describe the attributes that give one the feeling of moe (i.e., only something with moe makes you feel moe.) As with "otaku," the meaning has evolved quickly over the past few years.

Originally, the word was the domain of the hard-core Japanese otaku community, the denziens of the Tokyo neighborhood of Akihabara (known as the Akiba-kei). It was used to describe the (non-sexual) attraction of an otaku to an ideal female anime or manga character. The full richness of the moe experience requires a deep knowledge and understanding of the backstory and context of the object of desire. Moe is the warm feeling of the connoisseur when in the presence of an ideal example within his area of expertise.

In Akiharbara, there are many places for the otaku to experience moe; anime conventions or cosplay events, for example. Especially popular are the many cafes catering to the cosplay otaku that feature costumed waiters and waitresses acting out various roles for a participatory theatical experience. These cafes cater to every kind of otaku from train enthusists to fans of various computer games. For the American tourist, these cafes are amusing and strange, just another wierd "Japanese thing." They feel no moe. Moe requires that the participant be an initiate. An appreciation of the context is what makes the experience moe. If a watch otaku were to visit the Omega Watch Museum in Bienne, it would be very moe. For the otaku's spouse, not moe.

Gradually, the word moe has been adopted in many contexts, including those well outside of the anime world. I think it is a useful word. How else to describe the otaku's love of the rare and wonderful? Why do collectors pay vast amounts of money for an early Rolex Submariner or a TR-900? How else to understand the blossoming of joy when opening the box when a newly purchased watch arrives in the mail? It is moe.

The concept of moe also lets us understand why some watches excite and other leave us cold. Not all watches have moe. It is a function of the depth of the experience that a certain watch allows. History, quality, quirkiness, rarity, exclusivity, sincerity of vision, branding, bragging rights, even the bling-factor all can create moe in a watch or brand. Why does the Hanhart single pusher chronograph made in 1943 make the collector's heart race, and the nearly identical re-issue provides only a passing interest? Why is the IWC Mark XI so much more exciting than the many recent "hommages?" Why is the UK military issue Rolex Submariner 5517 worth twenty times he virtually identical civilian model 5513? Moe. You might also say "soul."

Rolex, Omega, Seiko, UTS, Ken Sato's RXW, Sinn, Kobold, Bathys, Bali Ha'i -- moe. (I would note that I don't really like all these watches, but their moe is undeniable.)

Citizen, TAG Heuer, Ball or other modern watches who have appropriated a historical brand, or anything made in China (and quite a few more I could name) -- not moe.

What about Corvus? Moe-licious!

A Visit to the Fairytale Forest: Fricker GmbH & Co. K.G.

2009-03-16T21:24:00.024-04:00

The Black Forest. Schwartzwald. The location of cherry chocolate cake, Little Red Riding Hood, and intensive bombing during the Second World War. Mannheim, Karlsruhe and Pforzheim were all hit hard. The first was Mannheim in December, 1940, part of the British raid in retaliation for the bombing of Coventry Cathedral. In Septebmer 1944 Karlsruhe was bombed, completely destroying the 18th century palace. Finally, in February 1945 Pforzheim was hit by 367 RAF Lancaster bombers, dropping almost half a million high explosive and incendiary bombs. Pforzheim was targeted because it was a center for the manufacture of jewelry and watch components. Certain watch components were essential in the creation of bomb detonators. Before and during the war, the industry was highly decentralized. An Allied report issued in August 1944 stated that "almost every house in this town centre is a small workshop." The results of the bombing were one of the most devastating of the war, comparable only to Dresden. 83% of the city was destroyed in 20 minutes, including one-third of the population and the entire Medieval center. Earlier strategic bombing reports rated Pforzheim's military significance very low, leading one historian to note: "...Pforzheim, [was] selected primarily because [it was] easy for the bombers to find and destroy. Because [it] had a medieval centre, [it was] expected to be particularly vulnerable to fire attack."

I arrived in Pforzheim on a dreary day in December. I had spent the night before in the charming historical town of Heidelberg. In contrast, Pforzheim was a shock. The downtown was completely devoid of character, full of square featureless 1950's modern construction, and all a little shabby. I had lived for a time in Münster, up in Northern Germany. As a garrison town, Münster was also completely destroyed by allied bombing. However, after the war, the citizens of Münster made the then controversial decision to rebuild the town center exactly as it looked before the war. In Münster, one can easily forget the ravages of the Second World War; in Pforzheim it is impossible.

Although lacking charm, Pforzheim has an abundance of excellent watch-related companies. They are no longer the cottage industries they were before the war. They are not run by elven craftsmen in leiderhosen. They are compact, modern operations with highly skilled technicians running state-of-the-art computer controlled machinery. Pforzheim is the home to Hermann Staib GmbH and Aristo Vollmer GmbH , both of which make excellent watch bracelets, and of course, the famous casemakers and watch assemblers Fricker GmbH .

My destination was Fricker. The headquarters were located in a newish industrial block, actually rather stylish. I arrived early in the morning, and did not leave until fairly late in the evening. I got the impression that 12 hour days are the norm here.

My contact during the previous six months of my relationship with the company had been Bernhard Weidmann, "Bernie" for short. Bernie was in his mid-40's with a big smile and quite good English. He occupied a large modern office space in the front of the factory, decorated with large Kremke and Korsbek Watch Company posters. The posters featured lithe, half-naked female models sporting these Fricker-made watches. Bernie noted that Fricker has their own photo studio and ad agency for the use of their clients. The results were impressive, and certainly eye-catching.

First a few observations on doing business with the Germans. You absolutely must visit them and meet in person. Germans are like old-school American businessmen. Personal relationships are important for getting the best service and for mutual understanding. First, we were served coffee, obligatory as part of the European business ritual. By the time I came to Germany, we were already well along in the design process. Fricker had interpreted my many CAD drawings and photographs into a complete set of engineering drawings. It is one thing to design a wristwatch case. It is quite another to engineer one. We had previously rejected an early design with a complete Faraday cage for extreme anti-magnetism. It added over 2mm in thickness, making the watch just too thick. I was determined to make the first Corvus offering -- the Bradley Dive Watch -- very close to the original U.S. Navy specs and blueprint drawings. Plus, modern watch movements already have considerable anti-magnetism built into the movement, so in a dive watch, such extreme anti-magnetism was really unnecessary. A pilot's watch, on the other hand, may well benefit from this and I'm sure in the future I will incorporate this in a watch.

After a while, Walter Fricker came in to meet me. Now, finally, someone who nearly meets the stereotype of the master watchmaker! Walter is an older man, probably in his late 60's, but looks much younger. Luckily my college German came back to me, and I was able to carry on a decent conversation with him. He called in Bich, one of the engineers, and proceeded to study the drawings with the eye of a master. After a long time, he noted an error. Although the plans had been changed to delete the Faraday cage, they still called for an extra-thick dial. He pointed out to me that, counter-intuitively, a thick dial without a Faraday cage actually can cause a movement to become slightly magnified after 5 or 6 years. The design was quickly changed. Herr Fricker is really quite an amazing man. He was partners in the Sinn company for many years, but split over a business dispute involving another joint venture. It involved a factory that flooded -- long story. I doubt there is anyone in Europe with more skill and experience than Walter Fricker.

Next, I was given a tour of the production floor. A row of shiny new CNC machines were working away at small pieces of stainless steel, and stacks of rough milled cases waiting to have finishes applied. The machines were demonstrated by milling one of my casebacks. It took a surprisingly long time, just to engrave a single caseback. Bernie also explained that the programming of the machine also takes considerable time. As robotic as the milling machines are, there is a lot of skill and time involved in making catch cases. As my caseback was the first one, Walter rejected it. The engraving was slightly deeper on one side than the other. I could barely see it. These guys are perfectionists. I commented about a certain caseback with a cartoon of a seal on it. The engineer working the machine said yes, he got very sick of looking at it after a week of engraving them for a former Fricker client.

I also saw the other various machinery and stations on the production floor, the various polishing drums and other ancient looking devices. Bernie pointed out that every process needed to make any part of a watch can be done on premises (except the movement). He also noted that on occasion a special project might require the use of the antique machinery. He said that when they are busy, the run close to 24 hours utilizing two or three shifts.

Upstairs I met the back office staff. Frau Fricker personally does the quality control on every fricker product. Nothing leaves the factory without her having carefully examined it and having been given her seal of approval.

After a fine lunch at a local restaurant (I had the seasonal wild boar, tender and delicious), we returned to the offices for more coffee and conversation. Bernie and I examined the Kolsterised test cases that had come back from the Bodycote company in Holland. Since I was the first customer to specify this feature, Fricker had no experience with it. The test cases were amazing. There were no dimensional changes at all, only a very subtle greying of the surface after the process. I liked the color a lot, although this is probably only apparent on a matt case.

We tried to scratch the cases using a variety of implements, including a stainless steel Swiss Army knife. After these attempts, there was a slight mark where the sharp edge tried to scratch the Kolsterised steel. Upon examination, the mark was the material that had come off the knife blade! The matt Kolsterised steel had acted like a mill file and dulled the knife blade, leaving the remnants on the case. A wipe with the finger removed the mark. There was absolutely no indentation or scratch whatsoever! Kolsterising is certainly not scratch-proof. Hardened steel would scratch it, as would certain rocks. But it is really astonishing stuff!

We spent the next three hours working out many of the smaller details of the Bradley Dive Watch, as well as three other forthcoming projects. Each of the next three planned Corvus watches present unique engineering problems. The third planned watch is a bi-compax chronograph with subdials at 12 and 6 and a co-axial single pusher, a reproduction of a very rare military watch. After much discussion, we overcame the movement problems, and focussed our attention to the case. Walter scratched his head, and gave Bich an order. Five minutes later, Bich returned with a case that had been used before that was similar to what I had in mind. I was amazed again. Fricker had already solved the engineering problem in another project years ago. It was then that I realized these guys can do anything.

Another interesting thing is that Fricker has a subsidiary in Switzerland that specializes in limited edition watches using restored vintage movements. This allows us to offer this forthcoming chronograph in a limited edition with a vintage Valjoux 61 movement.

Our fourth watch involves a very unusual and complicated case design. After describing it to Walter, he said it would be no problem, but it would be helpful for him to see the original. Luckily I own one. Again, nothing seems to deter these guys. I am probably one of their more difficult clients, but they seem to enjoy the challenges of making something new and unusual.

Finally, I declined Bernie's offer to go out for drinks (it was now 8:00 p.m.), and returned to my hotel. I am certain I could not have found better partners than the people at Fricker to help realize my vision for the Corvus Watch Company.

Introduction: A selective and opinionated history of the wristwatch industry.

2009-03-07T21:06:00.003-05:00

During the 19th Century, American pocket watches were the finest in the world. The Swiss even faked them. Any gentleman of means carried one, and the bigger the better. A gold case and chain also helped. Ladies carried small pocket watches or occasionally a jewelry-like wristwatch. During WWI men began to strap small pocket watches on their wrists out of necessity. Even after the war, the only men to wear wristwatches were veterans and busy middle-class men. As for the rich and idle, wearing one was gauche, as it indicated that a man was "overly concerned with time."

During WWII, many soldiers got their first ever wristwatch, from the supply sergeant. By the war's end wristwatches had become universally adopted. The style for men was a tiny watch, especially in the U.S.. Until the 1960's, men's watches were between 30 and 32mm. It was almost as if men were still embarrassed to be wearing them.

After the war, as servicemen returned from occupied Europe with souvenir wristwatches, Swiss brands became prestigious. Eventually, by the 1960's, the Swiss watch industry had out-competed the U.S. domestic watch industry, mostly through greater investment in new equipment, and snob appeal. U.S. companies moved operations overseas (Bulova) or were just liquidated (Waltham & Elgin).

This Golden Age of Swiss mechanical watches only lasted about 20 years, from 1950-1970. During this time demand was huge, and thousands of brands produced hundreds of thousands of models of watches. (In 1951 there were 2,800 watch companies in Switzerland). Many have become classics, or even icons. Most watches were put together from stock parts by companies who have by now faded into oblivion. Many of these watch models only existed in production runs of a few hundred. Still, the creativity and stylistic variation was astonishing.

In the 1970's, the world changed with the introduction of the quartz watch. By the 1980's the Swiss watch world had collapsed under the weight of very cheap Asian quartz watches. Swiss companies sold their machinery for scrap. Warehouses full of parts were auctioned off for centimes on the Franc. (Of the 1,618 Swiss watch companies in 1970, only 624 were active by 1984.) Everyone in the world seemed content to wear a wristwatch that ran on a battery and that cost less than a meal at a restaurant.

However, in the 1990s something happened. Men of taste began to realize that they would rather wear a pocket protector than these wrist calculators that were masquerading as timepieces. In a world full of increasingly disposable pieces of electronic crap, wearing a precision mechanical instrument had great appeal. Also, gold chains went out of style, so all men had left were their wristwatches.

At first, a couple of the surviving Swiss marques rode this wave, fulfilling the demand for prestigious mechanical watches. Later in the decade, savvy entrepreneurs bought the trademarks of some of the past greats (Blancpain, Ulysse Nardin, Panerai, Heuer, to name a few), reinventing these brands into prestige labels. At the same time, there was a consolidation in the industry, with three corporate Goliaths dominating virtually the entire Swiss watch industry: LVMH (TAG Heuer), Richemont (Panerai) and the Swatch Group (Omega). Rolex, largely owned by a non-profit charitable trust, has been immune to this trend.

Perhaps because of the concentration of design talent in Northern Europe and the mediocrity of corporate decision making, Swiss watches in the new millennium have tended to look the same: Pseudo-avant-garde and with a faint reek of Euro-trash. Techno-bling rules the day.

However, starting around 2002, a strange thing happened. Small "boutique" watch companies started popping up. Operating outside of the regular retail channels, these upstarts relied instead on the Internet for sales and marketing. What made these companies different most of all was that they were created and supported by watch enthusiasts. These enthusiasts resisted the monopolization of the industry through passion and CAD programs, in partnership with small European companies willing to do small production runs.

Like the thousands of watch companies in the 1950s that pursued a multiplicity of creative visions, today's small independent companies are helping to create a second golden age of mechanical watches.